With something of a question mark over weather hold on the islander plane out of Tingwall I check in with Ann at Airtask who assures me the plane will leave on time, even earlier if we are there. We head from Bigton to Tingwall allowing time for tractors and Shetland Wool-Weekers etc but have a clear run and get there in good time. We are impressed at our very light packing as every case comes in under the 15kg limit, but there is a small mountain of post and packages as the Good Shepherd hasn’t been out since Tuesday.

Just landed in Fair Isle - photo by Lydia Griffiths

The pilot warns us the flight will be bumpy due to the high winds, but in the end it was pretty smooth - and a textbook landing. Our friends on the fire crew open the doors to let us out, hugs all round, and after waving the plane back off to the mainland we head to our Fair Isle hosts - Caroline and Lydia to Pat and Neil, Jo to Fiona and Robert, Stu and I to Ian.

After kitchen table catchups and lunch we head out to explore. Anne Sinclair shows us round the Museum, a fascinating trove of histories. There is a violin made from driftwood on the wall - which Daniel restrung 6 years ago when we were here - today Caroline picks it up, tunes it and plays some folk tunes on it. It has a warm, robust sound.

At the Fair Isle Museum with Anne Sinclair

Caroline tuning the violin made from driftwood at the Fair Isle Museum

Ian has offered to show us Stroms Heelor, where the Gran Grifón was wrecked against the cliff. We walk up in the golden evening light and document the place. The sea is churning against the rocks and the wind is fierce, whipping around our ears. It is only a small leap to imagine the scene 435 years ago.

We head back to Ian’s for an aperitif, sitting in the west room which is almost all glass, watching the glorious sunset. As the light disappears the other hosts are pinging in calling their guests to supper, so Caroline Jo and Lydia head out across the fields under a big moon.

Thank yous today to Sharon at Jim’s Garage for the trusty car which has taken us all around the mainland, to Ann for a great Museum tour, to Ian for being our guide to Stroms Heelor, and to all our hosts for their warmest of welcomes.

Blogging by Claire Shovelton

Header photo by Lydia Griffiths, photo of moon over Kirk by Caroline Balding